The scratching sound of Xiao Li's pen tip moving across the paper was particularly crisp.
Huang Chen and the guests at the next table had somewhat strange expressions on their faces.
He Zhiyuan elevated this small piece of dried tofu and dried bean curd sticks to such a high level.
No wonder he's the deputy editor-in-chief of the magazine!
He Zhiyuan tasted another piece of kelp knot, swallowed it, and said, "Compared to these, this kelp knot seems quite ordinary."
He then tried the spicy braised vegetables and nodded slightly, saying, "The spicy red oil is quite well-made, but compared to that, I still prefer the original five-spice flavor. You can taste the aroma of the old braising liquid and the original flavor of the ingredients, which is quite unique."
Huang Chen smiled and said, "I think the spicy flavor is more refreshing. The spiciness of this dish is more fragrant and slightly numbing, with a particularly fragrant sesame. The lotus root and potatoes, in particular, are excellent when coated with chili oil and served with alcohol."
"Look, that's just a matter of different tastes and preferences." He Zhiyuan laughed as well: "Look at the amount of the two kinds of braised dishes left in those bowls, the spicy flavor should be more popular."
"You don't argue at all." Huang Chen looked at him. "Back in school, you almost got into a fight with Xiao Pang over whether or not to put chili in a dish."
"Back then I was young and narrow-minded. Once I made up my mind, I thought it was right and I had to argue with people to see who was right and who was wrong." He Zhiyuan shook his head with a smile. "Over the years I have traveled to many places, eaten different kinds of food, and seen different customs and traditions. Naturally I have developed a sense of awe and empathy."
"If you knew that people in Fujian and Guangdong steam or boil seafood, you would think that the fishy smell would be hard to get rid of and the food would be tasteless. But when they knew that we braise or stir-fry seafood, they would slap their thighs and scold us for wasting such a delicacy."
"That makes sense." Huang Chen nodded, then asked curiously, "So, seafood is just boiled in water with nothing added? Is that even edible?"
He Zhiyuan laughed and said, "They do add some ingredients, though. They still add scallions, ginger, and cooking wine. In their words, they're all about the freshness. But I don't really like it. It's too bland. At least it should be served with a nice dipping sauce."
As he spoke, he picked up a piece of braised beef with his chopsticks, examined it carefully, and couldn't help but exclaim, "This beef shank is so beautifully braised, with a bright red color. After cutting it open, the tendons are like amber on top. The meat looks quite firm. The beef quality is good, and the heat is also well controlled. Unlike some braised beef, which looks very loose when cut open and tastes dry and tough."
"Grandma Zhang's braised beef was a specialty of Jiazhou back in the day." Huang Chen said.
He Zhiyuan put the beef into his mouth, chewed it carefully, and his eyes gradually brightened. After swallowing, he said, "The beef has a firm texture, a rich braised flavor, and slightly chewy tendons. It's not dry or tough, and the more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes! The beef used should be yellow beef, so the beef flavor is more prominent and not overpowered by other aromas."
"To be honest, this braised beef is top-notch even in Rongcheng."
"This old braising liquid is amazing! Whether it's braised pig's head meat or braised beef, the flavor is so rich and mellow, it has a power that penetrates the soul!"
Putting down his chopsticks, He Zhiyuan's expression was filled with emotion. "The older generation's skills were indeed high. It's such a privilege that this pot of old braising liquid and the technique of braising meat have been passed down. We are so fortunate to be able to sit here and taste such delicious food."
Huang Chen and Xiao Li both nodded.
"Alright, Xiao Li, stop writing and start eating." He Zhiyuan said to Xiao Li, taking a pair of chopsticks from the chopstick holder and handing them to him. He then picked up his own chopsticks and shoveled a mouthful of rice into his mouth.
Xiao Li was flattered and took the chopsticks, stuffed the notebook back into his bag, clipped the pen to his breast pocket, and first picked up a piece of beef and put it in his mouth.
Mmm, delicious!
It has a rich, savory aroma, a satisfyingly meaty texture, and becomes more fragrant with each chew.
Then there are the braised vegetarian dishes, each with its own unique flavor, especially the braised dried bean curd sticks, which tastes even better than meat.
Zhou Yan's skill is truly exceptional!
Even in Rongcheng, this braised food is absolutely top-notch. Once they build a reputation, business will definitely be booming.
After lunch, Huang Chen went back to work, while He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sat on the bench outside.
He Zhiyuan took a photo of Zhou Momo alone with his camera.
"Cheese!" Zhou Momo sat on a small stool, smiling and giving a peace sign to the camera.
"Okay, stand up and I'll take another picture of you." He Zhiyuan said with a smile. To be on the safe side, he took two pictures this time to avoid the situation where the blurry photos couldn't be printed.
Around one o'clock, the workers finished their lunch and went back for a break before getting ready to go back to work, and the kitchen also quieted down.
Zhou Yan took off his apron and came out of the kitchen. He put a packaged pig's trotter in the basket of his 28-inch bicycle, pushed it on, and went out. He looked at He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sitting under the tree and said, "Editor-in-Chief He, I'm sorry to have kept you two waiting. Let's go to Zhou Village."
"We're just sitting here to digest our food, let's go." He Zhiyuan said with a smile, handing the camera to Xiao Li and sitting down on the bicycle.
"Goodbye, Uncle, Guo Guo!" Zhou Momo stood at the door and waved her little hand at them.
"Goodbye, Little Momo." He Zhiyuan said with a smile and a wave.
On the way to Zhou Village, He Zhiyuan rode side by side with Zhou Yan and praised, "Your braised vegetables and braised beef taste so good, especially the braised dried tofu and braised dried bean curd sticks. You used Xiba tofu, right?"
"Editor-in-Chief He has a really sharp tongue. How could you tell that from the taste?" Zhou Yan looked at him with surprise. He had never told the guests about the origin of the dried tofu and dried bean curd sticks, yet He Zhiyuan had managed to figure it out.
"I did an interview for a Xiba tofu banquet, and I ate the dried tofu and dried bean curd sticks there. I was very impressed." He Zhiyuan explained. "But back then we found a locally recognized tofu master. However, today I tasted your dried tofu and dried bean curd sticks, and they are in no way inferior to those of that master. Could it be that you got them from Xiba?"
Xiba Town is also a township under the jurisdiction of Jiazhou, and it is dozens of kilometers away from Suji.
It's not exactly far, but it's not exactly close either.
Zhou Yan's dried tofu only sells for sixty cents a jin, why would he need to travel all the way to Xiba to buy it?
While dried tofu is easier to transport than tofu, but it still doesn't keep well for long periods.
The uniqueness of Xiba tofu lies not only in the use of local small-grained soybeans and some differences in processing techniques, but also in its close connection to the local cold-water wells.
There's a saying that Xiba's tofu masters can't make good Xiba tofu once they leave Xiba.
"My great-aunt married into Suji from Xiba, and she inherited her family's tofu-making skills. From my grandmother's generation onwards, she used her homemade dried tofu and dried bean curd sticks." Zhou Yan said with a smile, "Her skills are so good that she deserves the title of 'tofu master' even in Xiba."
"To be able to make tofu of this quality in Suji, the title of 'master' is truly well-deserved!" He Zhiyuan nodded, a hint of emotion in his voice. "It seems your family can be considered a culinary family."
Zhou Yan smiled upon hearing this. To be precise, they should be considered a family of cattle butchers.
The Zhou family had been butchering cattle for generations, but he took a different path.
The old lady's braised dishes were indeed excellent, but if he hadn't shown his talent, there would probably have been no successor.
Comrade Zhao Tieying, who was once highly regarded by the old lady, was beaten out of the kitchen by the old lady with a bamboo stick.
On the way, Zhou Yan told He Zhiyuan about the old lady's basic situation, including when she started selling braised meat at the Suji Bridge and how she raised her five children with a pot of braised meat.
He spoke briefly, mainly mentioning a few key dates so that He Zhiyuan could ask targeted questions.
Based on Zhou Yan's observation of the old lady, her memory of many things might be hazy, but mentioning specific dates might help her recall some details.
He Zhiyuan nodded occasionally, while Xiao Li, craned his neck to listen attentively, afraid of missing a single word.
If he couldn't answer when the local editor asked him, that would be terrible!
"Slow down, this village road is a bit bumpy." Zhou Yan reminded him.
"This is considered good. You haven't seen a truly bumpy road. You'd be so tired you wouldn't want to ride it anymore." He Zhiyuan laughed. "I heard your village has a nickname, 'Zhou Village, the Village of Slaughtering Cattle.' Does every household slaughter cattle?"
Isn't this a notorious and fearsome reputation? Even cultured people know how to talk. Zhou Yan replied with a smile, "Not every household slaughters cattle, but in terms of scale, it's certainly among the top in Jiazhou."
There weren't many people on the road in the village at this time. Zhou Yan greeted them a few times and then stopped in front of the old house with He Zhiyuan. "This is it."
He Zhiyuan parked the bicycle, and Zhou Yan walked first into the courtyard through the half-open door, calling out, "Grandma!"
"Come in." came the old lady's voice from inside the main room.
He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li followed him inside. The yard was very clean, and there was a chicken coop in the corner. Judging from the noise, there must have been quite a few chickens, ducks, and geese.
Upon entering the main room, they looked up and saw two red plaques with gold lettering that read "Family of First-Class Heroes" hanging on the wall.
Huang Chen told him about the Old Zhou family's two first-class meritorious officials. At the time, he only felt that the family had a strong sense of loyalty and integrity. But when he saw the two plaques, the overwhelming sense of pressure made him feel something different.
Her husband sacrificed his life on the battlefield of the Korean War, and her youngest son returned from the Sino-Vietnamese War with serious injuries. Both of them made outstanding contributions and are worthy of admiration.
As a wife and mother, the weight of these two plaques is self-evident.
A slender, but ramrod straight, elderly woman emerged from the kitchen carrying a thermos. She smiled at the three of them and said, "You've come! Please sit down, don't be shy. I'll make you some tea."
"You're too kind." He Zhiyuan said, looking at the old woman with a hint of admiration on his face.
"One plaque belongs to my grandfather, and the other to my youngest uncle." Zhou Yan explained to the two.
"This is truly well-deserved, a family of meritorious officials." He Zhiyuan said sincerely.
"They all said it was their duty to defend their country." The old lady looked up at the two plaques and smiled. "That's absolutely right, otherwise, we wouldn't have the good life we have now."
He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sat down, and Zhou Yan put the pig's trotter on the table and came over to help serve tea, saying, "Grandma, I brought you a braised pig's trotter."
"Okay, then I don't have to cook dinner tonight." The old lady nodded with a smile, sat down on a chair, and looked at He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li, saying, "Are you reporters?"
"Hello, Old Mrs. Zhang. We are not reporters. I am He Zhiyuan, the deputy editor-in-chief of Sichuan Cuisine magazine, and this is my assistant, Xiao Li." He Zhiyuan introduced himself with a smile. "We are here today to interview you about your experience in running Zhang Ji Braised Food and its inheritance, and to do an interview about the story behind the inheritance of braised food."
The old lady smiled and said, "Zhou Yan said that only masters are featured in your magazine. How could an old woman from the countryside like me, who makes braised dishes, be featured?"
"We had lunch at Zhou Yan's restaurant today. We had braised vegetables, braised beef, and braised pig's head meat. The taste was amazing. It's the best braised food I've ever had." He Zhiyuan said earnestly, "Zhou Yan's skills were passed down from you. You certainly deserve the title of master of braised food."
"It seems Zhou Yan wasn't lying." The old lady nodded slightly. "Then just ask whatever you want to know, and I'll tell you if I remember."
"Okay." He Zhiyuan's face lit up with joy. The old lady had a very good personality and was very cooperative.
He had encountered some older people before who were stubborn and impossible to reason with. If they got too angry, they would even hit him with their canes.
He was just asking for a recipe. They weren't obligated to answer. Hitting someone was going too far.
Xiao Li quickly took out a notebook from his cloth bag, placed two fountain pens on the table, and unscrewed the ink bottle from his bag, setting it aside.
In his experience, older people who volunteered for interviews were very talkative, which was exhausting for them, their pens, and their ink.
Seeing that Xiao Li was ready, He Zhiyuan asked, "Grandma Zhang, when did you learn to make braised dishes, and from whom did you learn this skill?"
The old lady fell into deep thought, and after a while she spoke: "I learned the skill of making braised dishes from my mother. As far back as I can remember, our family has been making braised dishes. My mother and father would braise a pot of pig's head and a pot of vegetables everyday and take them to the market to sell.
I am the eldest child in my family, with a younger brother and two younger sisters. I helped peel potatoes and lotus roots when I was little, and later I scraped pig hair and cleaned pig intestines.
My mother said that this skill was passed down to her by her father. My maternal grandfather used to be the head chef in the household of a high-ranking official in Rongcheng. He was a well-known master of hot dishes in Rongcheng at that time.
Later, when the world was in turmoil and survival was difficult, my maternal grandfather defied ancestral teachings and taught my mother the secret recipe and method for making braised food. Our family survived thanks to this pot of braised food.
Later, my mother taught me her skills and secret recipes. When I was eighteen, I was introduced to Zhou Yi, and I married into Suji..."
Zhou Yan sat quietly to the side, listening intently. The old lady's tone was quite relaxed, echoing the swift strokes of Xiao Li's pen.
The tabby cat lay on a chair nearby, snoring softly.
The old lady recounted some events from when she first arrived in Zhou Village, events that Zhou Yan had not previously seen in her fragmented memories.
"When I first married into the family, Zhou Yi's father divided the family property and gave us a mud-brick house. The walls were full of cracks and the roof was full of holes. On rainy days, it rained heavily outside and drizzled inside, and the wind blew through the house. Life was simply unbearable.
But Zhou Yi was diligent. In his spare time after slaughtering cattle, he would repair the walls and roof. By the time winter was approaching, he had finally repaired the dilapidated house.
Our family was still poor, and we lived a very frugal life. We didn't even have a cotton-padded coat, so I thought of making braised dishes. I cleaned up the scraps of beef intestines and beef tripe, braised them in braising liquid, and everyone said they tasted good, so I decided to give it a try.
We started by selling it near the Qingyi River. Because the price was affordable and the taste was good, it sold quite well.
After accumulating some capital, I started braising pig's heads and selling them everyday at the Suji Stone Bridge. Business got better and better, and the braised meat went from selling for ten jin to twenty jin, then a hundred jin. When we couldn't carry it anymore, we bought a donkey and got a donkey cart..."
The old lady spoke slowly and deliberately. When she talked about how her business was getting better and better, a smile appeared on her face. But when she mentioned that her husband had followed the army out of Sichuan, her brows furrowed involuntarily.
Zhou Yan had mostly read the rest of the story in her memory.
Decades have passed, and some discrepancies have indeed occurred, but overall, the old lady's memory is still quite good, and she remembers many things clearly.
She omitted everything about the Jiazhou restaurants coming to purchase her braised meat, only saying that some Jiazhou diners would come because of its reputation.
The old lady has a very high bottom line: she would never betray her partners.
He Zhiyuan would occasionally ask a few questions and discuss topics that interested him, but most of the time he would listen to the old lady talk.
This long-winded conversation lasted for two hours.
Xiao Li's hands were shaking when he put the pen cap back on and twisted the cap off the Hero brand ink bottle.
Another nine thousand three hundred and forty two.
Life is truly miserable.
He Zhiyuan's eyes reddened as he listened, deeply moved. He said, "Grandma Zhang, hearing about your passing down of this pot of braised food has brought tears to my eyes!
This pot of braising liquid, passed down from your grandfather, has nourished three generations and become a culinary memory for generations of Suji residents. Now, it has been passed down to Zhou Yan and is becoming a new favorite on the palates of a new generation of Suji residents.
Could I take a picture of you? If the article gets published in the magazine, it can be used as an illustration to accompany the text."
The old lady straightened her clothes and nodded, saying, "Okay, go ahead and take the pictures."
"You can sit here." He Zhiyuan took out his camera and took two steps back.
The old lady, dressed in a simple blue diagonal-fronted cloth shirt, sat in the seat of honor in the main room, her expression calm and composed. Behind her hung two plaques inscribed with "Family of First-Class Heroes", and next to her was a photograph of Old Mr. Zhou.
When He Zhiyuan pressed the shutter, his eyes were filled with tears.
This is more than just a pot of braised food. It is the bond that tightly binds this large family together, and the bond is held in the old lady's hand.
Putting away his camera, He Zhiyuan looked at the old lady and said, "Grandma Zhang, once the photos are printed, I'll send them to Zhou Yan so he can give them to you. I'll also send you a copy of the magazine when it's published."
"Okay, thank you for your trouble." the old lady nodded, smiling as she saw them out.
"Editor-in-Chief He, would you like my grandma to make a pot of braised dishes?" Zhou Yan asked on the way back.
"No need. The old lady said your braised meat and braised vegetables are just as good as hers. Why make the old lady work so hard?" He Zhiyuan shook his head with a smile, his face full of emotion. "Zhou Yan, you have such a keen eye for choosing people. This is definitely one of the best stories I've interviewed this year. It's no less impressive than the Kong Sect's legacy.
With a foundation of patriotism and a spirit of self-reliance embodied in the Sichuan women of that era, this pot of braised food is not only a delicious memory for the people of Suji, but also a legacy of dedication."
"Editor-in-Chief He's summary is excellent." Zhou Yan praised repeatedly, noting that He Zhiyuan's ability to elevate the theme was far superior to his own.
That's good. The higher the theme, the easier it is to get published in the magazine.
Little Suji, yet people are appearing in magazines, and all of them are related to him.
If the theme isn't high enough, it'll be hard to convince people.
He Zhiyuan looked at Zhou Yan and said, "Why don't you take me to see your great-aunt? I'm quite curious about how to make such authentic Xiba tofu in Suji. I'd like to do some interviews as a supplement."
Zhou Yan glanced at his watch, then shook his head helplessly: "Editor-in-Chief He, I'm sorry, I have to go back now to prepare for tonight's business. I'm planning to take my great-aunt to get her legs and eyes checked tomorrow afternoon, would you two like to come with me?
Or tomorrow morning, you can go to the stone bridge to find my cousin. He sells tofu there every morning, his stall has a sign that says "Silent Tofu", so it's easy to find. If you're short on time, you can go directly to him, and I'll write you a note so he can take you to his home for an interview."
He Zhiyuan nodded, "Okay, we're going back to Rongcheng tomorrow afternoon. If you're busy, we'll find it ourselves."
Zhou Yan stopped the bicycle, took out an account book and pen, wrote a few simple sentences, tore off a page, and handed it to He Zhiyuan.
Back in town, the two parted ways at the stone bridge. Zhou Yan went back to the restaurant, while He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li rode towards the guesthouse.
"Editor-in-chief, are you confident you can get this article about the old lady published? After all, she's not exactly a professional chef." Xiao Li asked curiously.
He Zhiyuan smiled and asked, "Xiao Li, what exactly qualifies as a professional chef?"
After thinking about it carefully, Xiao Li said, "At least they must have worked in a restaurant kitchen for a few years, or be a certified chef."
"That's too narrow-minded." He Zhiyuan shook his head. "A professional chef is one who can make food that most diners find delicious. The standard for judging whether a chef is professional is to make most customers satisfied and happy with their meal."
"Grandma Zhang's braised food skills are top-notch among cold dish chefs. She apprenticed under a Sichuan cuisine master from the late Qing Dynasty, and the family recipe has been passed down to the fourth generation. Zhou Yan still possesses this level of skill, so it truly deserves the title of the best braised food in Jiazhou."
"Even if Zhou Yan was to bring his pot of old braising liquid to Rongcheng now, which restaurant wouldn't be eager to take it?"
Xiao Li nodded repeatedly after hearing this, "Editor-in-chief, you're right. I was being narrow-minded."
When Zhou Yan rode his bicycle back to the restaurant, he saw Huang Ying and Huang Bing playing with Zhou Momo at the restaurant entrance.
"Guo Guo!" Zhou Momo saw Zhou Yan and immediately ran over happily.
The two of them also stood up with smiles to greet him:
"Boss Zhou."
"Brother Yan."
"Why are you here so early tonight? It'll be a while before we open for business." Zhou Yan ruffled Zhou Momo's hair, glanced at his watch, and saw it was exactly 4:30.
"I came here specifically to get your autograph because I saw you were in the magazine." Huang Ying took out two magazines, handed them to Zhou Yan, and said with a smile, "Come on, Boss Zhou, please sign this for me."
"I'm neither a writer nor a celebrity, what would a chef sign?" Zhou Yan said with a smile, looking at the two magazines.
"Your Cross-legged Beef is on the cover of the magazine! And there's a two-page interview too. Brother Yan, you're too modest! You're definitely going to be a famous chef someday." Huang Bing smiled and handed over a magazine, his smile ingratiating: "Sign one for me too. Your handwriting is beautiful, so write me a sentence too, just say: 'Bao Gu Xue, I will definitely pass your test and become your most loyal warrior!'"
Zhou Yan: "Huh?"
Huang Ying: "Tsk! Huang Bing, you're disgusting. Don't tell anyone you're my brother when you go out, I feel so ashamed. That Bao Gu Xue girl was just playing you, all she wanted was money and gifts, and you actually fell for her?"
"You don't understand, Xue Er is different." Huang Bing said nonchalantly, "Besides, what's wrong with flirting with me? If she flirts with me everyday, what's the difference between that and loving me?"
Zhou Yan took the Parker pen clipped to his pocket, quickly signed his name, and patted Huang Bing on the shoulder, saying, "Brother, don't listen to those girls saying they're testing you. Remember, in our country, only the Party and the people have the right to test you."